W e're very aware of white bread's shortcomings—highly processed, nutrient-deficient—when compared with its whole wheat counterpart. The satiating power of a bowl of oats is no mystery thanks to the staple's prominence in American breakfasting culture, but only recently have we begun to explore the wide-ranging benefits that whole grains (and pseudo-grains like quinoa, buckwheat, and amaranth) have to offer. Given the variety—oats, wheat berries, bulgur, and kamut, among others—as well as their versatility, we'd be remiss not to explore the world of these tiny wonders. So take a break from the tired, white, and processed and give vibrant, hearty whole grains a go.
In the past, food processing and storage practices made the whole grain a rarity in most supermarkets. According to Maria Speck, author of
Ancient Grains for Modern Meals: Mediterranean Whole Grain Recipes for Barley, Farro, Kamut, Polenta, Wheat Berries & More, the absence can be attributed to early industrialization during which shelf-stable processed and refined grains like white flour and pasta were introduced to the American consumer. Today, nutty, multicolored complex carbohydrates have been making a comeback as many natural and health food stores expand their grain offerings. And they deserve the hype: Whole grains are nutrient-dense powerhouses packed with iron, vitamins B and E, fiber, protein, and antioxidants. What's more, they have been suggested to lower cholesterol and risk for heart disease, as well as to aid in weight maintenance. In fact, quinoa and amaranth, so-called super-grains, contain all eight essential amino acids, making them excellent choices for vegetarians and others looking to bolster their diets with more plant-based protein.
While this renewed interest stems from a health angle, Speck argues that we should think of these staples not only as nutritional supplements but also exquisite additions to our meals. "We only talk about whole grains as healthy. Let's talk about them as something that brings variety, texture, flavor, and color to our meals. I even call them glamorous in my book because I want to highlight the beauty of the grains." So get familiar with whole grains by trying one of Speck's delicious and exotic recipes below, and tap into an ingredient that can transform your table any night of the week.
Grains can be divided into two categories: quick- and slow-cooking. Quick-cooking grains, ready in less than 30 minutes, include bulgur, quinoa, polenta, millet, and buckwheat. For an easy weeknight meal, cook these while you're preparing a fish or vegetable dish. Running especially short on time? Whole wheat couscous (semolina's healthier and more flavorful cousin) steams in just five minutes! Cooking time is generally under a half hour for quicker varieties, and each requires a different ratio of water-to-grain, so check the details of the specific grain before cooking.
Slower-cooking grains like whole wheat berries, kamut, spelt, and rye are generally chewier and richer in flavor. They can take approximately 30 to 70 minutes to prepare and use 1 ½ to 3 cups of water per cup of grain. Although the time commitment can be considerable, these grains can easily be integrated into your meals with some careful planning. Speck recommends soaking the grains and then simmering them for about an hour, depending on the freshness of the grain, over the weekend. After draining, they can either be stored in the fridge or frozen in individual portions, then cooked in the microwave for a quick preparation after work.
Although quinoa and amaranth by themselves are high in protein, manganese, and antioxidants, other grains need a complementary pairing for optimal health and nutrients. Try serving them with meat, fish, eggs, soy, cheese, or nuts to create both a tasty and satisfying meal, like we do in the recipe for
Wheat Berry and Barley Salad with Mozzarella.
Grains don't have to be boiled to be edible. Toasting the grains brings out a nuttier side. Try it with small grains like millet or buckwheat in recipes that can benefit from added crunch. When making
Greek Millet Saganaki with Shrimp and Ouzo, though, Speck sticks to boiling. "For one, I like its mildness and the comforting mouth feel, and it also blends nicely with the sweetness of the tomatoes. But this is a personal choice." If you want a more pronounced flavor without sacrificing tenderness, simmer the grains in a mixture of water, broth, and seasonings like peppercorns or a laurel leaf.
Are you a celiac foodie, or know of one? Don't despair; even you can partake in the grain awakening. Buckwheat, millet, rice, quinoa, and ever-popular oats are all gluten-free. Speck adds that people who are sensitive to certain kinds of refined starches can also sometimes enjoy ancient wheat varieties such as farro, kamut, and spelt. But for the truly gluten-intolerant, it's best not to try them.
When you're baking and looking to incorporate whole wheat flours, a 1:1 substitution for all-purpose flour won't work. What will work, however, are partial replacements that can increase the nutrients and density of your cakes, breads, and cookies. While Speck encourages the use of whole wheat flours, she warns not to carelessly forge ahead. "Baking is, of course, an art, and there are many things involved in an art. Typically, replacing up to half of the flour is fine. After that you really have to make adjustments." Using more whole wheat flour usually requires more liquid and a resting period of about 20 minutes, allowing the bran to absorb the extra liquid. That said, the addition of whole wheat flour when used properly can lead to a moister product.
Whole grains will go rancid faster than refined, so store them in airtight containers in a cool pantry to prolong freshness for months. When baking, store-bought pre-ground flours are convenient, but to get the best-tasting results, grind your own grains. Grinding at home allows you to get the absolute freshest product, as well as to control the flour's texture, perfect for
boulangers and passionate at-home bakers. Speck recommends the
KitchenAid Stand Mixer, which has a
grain mill attachment. If you're looking to buy already-ground flours, buy them from natural-foods markets that have high turnover rates—like Whole Foods. Don't have a natural-foods retailer nearby? Try ordering online from
Bob's Red Mill, Anson Mills, or
Lotus Foods.
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